Needs Further Definition
My wife's hometown,Jiquilpan,in the state of Michoacán has been selected by the Mexican State Tourism as one of 83 "Pueblo Magicos"...Magic Towns. I'll give you the official definition of what a Pueblo Magico is by the Mexican government:A magic village placed with symbolism,legends,history,important events,day to day life-in other words,magic in its social and cultural manifestations with great opportunities for tourism."
I've been going to Jiquilpan with my wife,sometimes bringing the grandkids,and on some occasions by myself. Ten years ago, as my wife and I were planning our retirement,we built a home in Jiquilpan. The looks of the town hasn't changed much in the 45 years that I've seen it. It is a village,so to speak,of around 15,000 habitants. Jiquilpan is very picturesque, and certainly falls within the guidelines of the definition.To sit in the plaza and watch the people strolling by the shops,see the quaint pastel colored adobe buildings illuminated by the bright sky,hear the old church bells ringing on the hour, is remedy for the hectic world of a more industrialized society that many of us live in and want to escape. The town has had some cherished figures in its history. Two presidents were born there. Augustin Bustamante,who I believe was the third president of Mexico after its victory over the Spanish,and Lazaro Cardenas,who threw out the foreign oil interests in the 1930's.He,along with Benito Juarez,were the two greatest presidents of the republic. Cardenas died in 1970. His images are still very common inside the businesses in town.Rafael Mendoza, considered to be one of the most accomplished virtuosos of the trumpet,called Jiquilpan his hometown. But it's the serene beauty of the town that captures the image of what a Mexican town should typify. Jiquilpan is pure Mexicana.Situated in a lush valley besides green hills,it is around a three hour drive on mostly country roads from the Guadalaja airport. You pass Lake Chapala,Mexico's largest lake ,just before arriving. The women buy their food at the open air markets in the morning. Tomatos,chilis,meat and fish,tortillas,limes and lemons,corn,jicamas,chayotes,mangos,guavas,chicharones,and of course,frijoles. All the food is fresh. They cook and eat it that day. On the weekends the "bosque",the evergreen park on the perimeter of town, is crowded with families eating carnitas and imbibing the homemade mescal, and Modelo beer." Musicos":the mariachis,the nortenos,and the Sinaloan musicians play up a storm. The festivities are a release from the hard workdays.
I've always enjoyed going down to Jiquilpan. I think of it as my second home,sometimes,my first. Since our house was completed,my sense of belonging in such a tranquil ambiance has put my mind to rest , where I might live out the rest of the days I have left.But recently things have changed,not only in Jiquilpan,but the rest of Mexico. It's inescapable. You watch the news and read the papers. I'll try to focus some personal experiences to exemplify.
The person who is in charge of the Cultural Center is a man named Conrado Leyva. He is my friend. We have been very close for twenty years. I bring my paintings to the center as gifts. He has offered to to pay for them or at least sell them for me. I tell him I don't want any financial compensation. The paintings are my appreciation of the fondness I have for Jiquilpan. Twice a year Conrado exhibits my paintings at the center. I also have paintings hanging inside the town's library where Jose Orozco,one of Mexico's most famous muralists,He was commissioned by Lazaro Cardenas,beautify the walls. This is quite an honor for me. Traditionally,Mexico doesn't allow foreign artists to display their works besides one of their own. The Lazaro Cardenas Museum,on the outskirts of town,also has a big portrait that I painted of President Cardenas displayed in the hallway.
Several times a year I call Conrado(or he calls me)to catch up on things. Just before the holidays I got a call from Conrado.
"Bueno. Roger?,"the voice inquired cautiously on the other line.
"Conrado,"I excitedly answered."How's it going amigo?"
"Very well.How is your family? How is your granddaughter Amanda? I miss you all."
"Everything is fine. We are happy.And your family?"
"Fine.Thank you amigo."
There was a pause, and then I heard Conrado take a deep breath. Ten years ago Conrado suffered a stroke. It left him partially paralyzed. He uses a walker.His speech is a bit slurred,but his mind is still sharp. The government doesn't think of replacing him. His sincerity for Jiquilpan is unequalled.He makes the trek five days a week from where he lives with his family in Zamora.His nephew drives him.His thick crop of hair has turned gray,but his face always shows an exuberance. He's light skinned,educated,but doesn't bask in an aura of elitism. He has dedicated himself to bring what the cultural components of the center has to all the people of Jiquilpan. The center has a concert hall with a spacious auditorium,classrooms,and workshops. Classes for instruction in practically all types of liberal arts and vocational training are offered.
"Roger,Are you thinking of coming to Jiquilpan soon?"
This was an unusual query from him.
"Believe it or not,Maria doesn't want to go for our usual visit in the winter.When she says that she doesn't want to go,there must be a problem."
"She is right. There are too many problems now."
"My wife has been talking with her family,"I said.
"The narcos have come west from Morelia and made trouble."
"I've been told."
"Last week they found five chopped off heads in the plaza."
"That must have upset everyone."
"La Familia is fighting the Jalisco Cartel. It is very dangerous. The army is blockading the roads. People are disappearing."
"I won't bring my grandchildren to Jiquilpan anymore,"I sighed.
"As you know you can't turn to the police. You have to get you information from the narcos."
Conrado never talked like this before.
"How is the economic crisis?"I asked wanting to get away from the subject of terror.
"There is no gas.The government raised the price by 20%.Gas is over 4 dollars a gallon.The people have stormed the gas stations,but there is no gas."
"It's getting that way in Tijuana too."
"The government will always sacrifice the rural areas first.The peso has gone from 10 pesos to the dollar to 21.Our money is becoming worthless.It's making people do crazy things.Some days my nephew is unable to drive me to the center,"said Conrado.
There was another silence. I needed to go somewhere else.
"Conrado,remember the time I brought that painting of Rodolfo Gonzalez for you?"I asked wanting to get away from the tragedy.
"Of course. You said that I could have it. It is in my living room. That painting and the one of Amanda."
"You said that you saw Gato fight in the Plaza de Toros."
"Yes.That was fifty years ago. He fought several times here.He was very popular.He filled the bullring every time he fought. He was just beginning ,but he was an exciting fighter to watch."
"I see Rodolfo once in a while. He lives in Oceanside. He remembers fighting in Jiquilpan.He said he struggled in those days."
"It is very hard to get to the top in fighting.There is no forgiveness."
"Are there anymore fights in the bullring?"
"There is no more boxing.There are no more bullfights.It is an empty arena."
"When I see Gato I'll tell him that you are thinking of him."
"Does he ever visit his state of Jalisco anymore?"
"Never. He has a brother living in his house in Tijuana,but he hasn't been there in awhile."
"It is vey hard for Mexicans to come back and see what's going on now."
"Conrado. I've never seen the Mexican people so desperate. It's a little scary."
"Do the Americans still say that Mexico needs another revolution?"asked Conrado.
"I tell them they did. The narcos took over .Now the politicians just wait to see who they'll be answering to."
"Roger,"said Conrado chuckling."You always make me laugh.One of these days,if God wants it,we'll get together again."
Conrado posing with my granddaughter Amanda with my painting of Gato Gonzalez
The Plaza de Toros,Jiquilpan,Mexico as it is today