A Tale Of 3 Gyms
So yesterday I went in the morning to drop in to see my granddaughter,Amanda,working at the coffee shop. The coffee shop is on Mission Gorge Road down the hill from the state college. On the way, I pass Tiger Small's Boxing Gym. It's not really his gym.The guy who has the karate place across the street is the owner,but he put Tiger in charge of running the boxing end of his enterprise.Lately though as I drive by,I've noticed that the doors to the boxing gym have been closed. Yesterday I saw the "For Lease " sign on the wall. After having a cup of coffee with my granddaughter,i drove back to the gym and took a picture.I then walked across the street to the karate studio to see if there was anyone there who could shed light on what was going on.The karate studio was closed too.
I had the rest of the day in front of me.On impulse I decided to cross the border and revisit a couple of old boxing institutions that I hadn't seen in some time,the "Indio" Ortega Gym in Parque Juarez and the Erik "Terrible" Morales's Gym in the Zona Norte.
I decided I'd first opt for the gym they named after Gaspar Ortega.The gym was located in Benito Juarez Park that was run by the city. The recreation facility is located right beside the 'Via Rapida" road that runs along the fence that separates the US and Mexico.You can toss a rock over the fence from the Mexican side to the US side without having to loosen up your arm.It had been awhile since I'd been to that park. The last time I was there it was in pretty bad condition.They'd let the grass on the baseball field die, The basketball gymnasium was marked up with graffiti and the windows were broken. The Gaspar Ortega Gym was in similar condition. There was broken glass and trash on the ground everywhere. At night the heroin addicts would drift in and use the place as a "shooting gallery."You could see the used needles strewn around on the ground. But yesterday ,to my surprise, it was different. The buildings had been refurbished,repainted, and the broken windows replaced. The grass on the ball field was green and growing again.The grounds were clean and I wasn't hesitant about using the restrooms. But with all the improvements the park looked abandoned. I entered the gate out front and could see an old heavyset woman sitting on a bench holding a soccer ball. I asked her if there was a boxing gym in the park. She pointed at a big building that was next to the outside basketball court. I pushed open the glass doors and saw that inside was a basketball court with a cement floor with basket ball posts on each end that were weighted down with big sandbags. On one side of the court was about a dozen rows of bleachers with individual plastic seats.You could still see some dry wall dust on the floor where the workers were working. It looked like a man and his small son were the only ones on the court. They were lazily shooting the ball around. I asked the man if there was a boxing gym on the premises.
"Go through the double doors,"he said pointing to a corner of the gym.
I walked through the doors and immediately saw a boxing ring with assorted punching bags to the side. They hung there motionless.The ring was empty.On the side of the ring was painted the word "bienvenidos" which means "welcome" in English. There were a few exercise benches with some small weights and some light dumbbells to the side away from the ring.Two men wearing T shirts and khaki pants were lifting weights.They looked like they were in their 40's.
"Excuse me,"I said."Is this the "Indio" Ortega Gym?"
"Why yes it is",answered one of the men in English.He put down the barbell and came up to me.He seemed anxious to answer my questions.
"This place has changed,"I said.
"Oh,it is new,"said the man.
"I remember when this park was pretty run down."
"It will be again,"said the man."It is beginning now."
His friend stopped exercising and stood beside the man speaking to me.
"I know the man who this gym is named after,"I said.
"You mean 'Indio' Ortega?"
"Yes.he lives in New York City now."
"He came here when the gym reopened,"said the man.
I remember the last time I saw Gaspar Ortega a few years ago at the World Boxing Hall of Fame banquet. He had lunch with my wife and I while his wife had to go for her dialysis treatment. He was a little worried.He was glad to be with us. My wife,especially,has that motherly comforting affect.He said that though he lived in Tijuana back when he was fighting that he was disgusted with Tijuana. The crime,the poverty,the corruptness was just too much for him to bear.
"You mean the city invited him to the ceremony?"I asked.
"Yes. He was here,"answered the man.
I had my doubts about what he said about Gaspar Ortega being here,but it wasn't that important to me to call him out on it.
"Tell me",said the man."Was he a good fighter?"
"He was one of the best.He fought for the championship."
"Did he live here?"
"In Colonia Morales. He was very popular."
"When did he fight?"asked the man.
"During the 50's and early 60's."
"Well ,it's fortunate for you that you came today. Tomorrow they are going to close this place down."
"Why?"
"No fighters come in here. The city won't pay for a trainer. They won't even let you pay the radio.Soon everything will be the way it was before."
I shook the man's hand and his friend's.When I went back to my car,I saw a guy wearing filthy clothes pushing a bucket on a cart. He had a rag in his hand.His face was grimy and he flashed a toothless smile. He wanted to know if he could clean off my car. I told him he could. He immediately started wiping. I walked to the corner trying to find a store that was open so I could buy a Coke. There was no store that was open. Most of the store fronts were boarded up.Grafitti was on all the bulidings. Trash and garbage was tossed everywhere onto the street, Mangy dogs were sniffing through the debris looking for something to eat.I noticed all the lights on the lamp posts were broken. I watched the guy wiping my car. The rag he was using was so dirty that he just streaked more grime on the chassis.I waked up to him while he was still wiping and gave him a couple of bucks.
I got in my car and drove to Erik Morales's Gym. I got a little lost,but I asked someone walking on the street and quickly got my bearings. Morales's gym is located on a corner on Coahuila Street in the Zona Norte about two blocks east from Parque Benito Juarez. The gym is above a little store that Morales has rented out.The gym has no sign and you can't see it from the street.At the side of the store is a small door. Up a flight of stairs is the gym.I peered through the glass on the door and saw some guys that looked like they were cleaning up. I walked inside. The gym is small,a ring to the left with boxing gear in shelves next to the windows facing the street. On the opposite side are the bags with a big mirror on the opposite side that covers the wall.The guys that were cleaning up put down their mops and buckets. They looked younger like they were in their teens and early 20's.
"Hola amigos,"I said smiling."I came by to visit. I haven't been here since 'Terrible' was the champion."
One of the boys stepped forward.
"The fighters don't come in until 4 o'clock,"he said friendly enough.
"How about Morales? Does he come in?"
"Very seldom. It's hard to know,"said the young man.
"Are you guys fighters?"I asked.
"Yes.We help out.We are here everyday."
"I was just at the gym in Parque Juarez."
"Why did you go there?"asked the young man.
"I know the fighter they named the gym after."
"Who's that?"
"Indio" Ortega."
"Did he fight in Tijuana?"
"Yes,many years ago."
"No one goes to that gym,"said the young man.
"Someone told me that today is the last day. After today it will close."
"Everything the government runs fails.They take the money for themselves."
"Well, this place looks like it's doing pretty good."
"A lot of fighters come here. This gym and the CREA. There are a lot of gyms in Tijuana ,but they are struggling."
"Well,I'll be back.Good luck to you guys,"I said.
The young men all shook my hand.I walked down the stairs and out to my car.
As I was diving east on Coahuila Street about two blocks before entering the red light district I passed the old cemetery. I saw dozens of police cars.I was in a about a two block section where people sell stuff out on the street.The streets were jambed with people. You can find just about anything you want.Most of it is stolen goods. The cops know it. They're shaking people down,standing guys up against walls and the sides of the cop cars. Police holding AR 15's stopping anyone in a car they think might be fencing something. I'm sure the cops have a hand in all this. "Mordida" will allow some one to operate with impunity. One hand washes the other. One big cop holding an AR 15,his bulletproof vest bulging from inside his uniform,big badge, and wearing wrap around shades put his hand on the hood of my car as I was trying to navigate around the potholes.He put his face near the window.
"Hola amigo,"I said.
He waved me on giving me a look like "What the hell is this dumb gringo doing here?"
I was thinking the same thing myself.I couldn't wait to get back to San Diego and call Tiger to find out why they shut down the gym.
http://imgur.com/ALAgTCf
No more Tiger Smalls Gym
http://imgur.com/WuWVust
The last day of the "Indio" Ortega Gym
http://imgur.com/rBoAbbc
"Terrible" Morales Gym.Still going strong