The Divine Road
"Who do you think is going to win?"he asked me.
"El Ruso,"I answered.
Things were working out good so far. I wasn't going to shell out 84 fifty to watch that fight in the States.It wasn't like 84 fifty would break me.it was the principle of the thing.The fight was free in Mexico,but because they knew Mexicans weren't going to cough up 84 fifty or one measly peso to watch the fight even if their boy Canelo was fighting, the fight was free across the border. If you watched it on the Mexican station it was on a delay. If the broadcast was the HBO U.S. feed then it was live. The Hotel Nelson on the corner of 1st and Revolution had the HBO channel. They paid a fee for the telecast,but they knew they'd make up for it because the restaurant and bar would be packed to the doors and the money would come rolling in.There was no cover charge. The few bars in San Diego that showed it asked an arm and a leg to get in the door.I lucked out and found an empty table outside in the patio.
The guy who asked me who was going to win had been sitting at a table across from where I was. He walked by and asked if he could sit with the group that had been sitting there before I arrived. There were four of them,all Mexicans. I think they were Chicanos. Three dudes and a gal. Young types. They had a bucket in front of them filled with beer in crushed ice Two of the guys had on LA Dodger jerseys.One had "Kemp" on the back. The other had "Puig" stenciled on. The third one wore a Raider jersey. "Lynch" was on the back of his jersey. The gal was a skinny scag and wore these big thick black framed glasses. She had on a loose halter top,but her chi chis weren't that big so it didn't urge me that much to see if anything was showing. The dudes were all tattooed up around the neck and shoulders. They were all smoking one cigarette after another and lapping up the beer pretty fast. Then this Mexican dude comes up to them and asks if they had any room for him at their table. They give him the OK and he plops down next to the girl and I can see he wants to fit in right away. He looks a lot older and I'm guessing he wants to be with the younger set so he can feel the same.
Canelo and GGG hadn't made their way ringside yet,Then I saw that everyone at the table across from me was breaking up. That's when the Johnny Come Lately old Mexican dude approached me and asked if there was any room where I'm at. There was an empty chair next to me and I couldn't see any reason to make some excuse.He introduced himself and extended his hand.His said his name was David. I reciprocated with my name and then that's when he asked me who was going to win
"I think the Ruso is going to win too,"he said.
David was short and had a pugnacious look,. He fronted a broken nose that bent a little to the side of his chiseled brown face. Furrows across his forehead and a square jaw,he looked like he had been in a few scapes. His eyes were black and his hair was still thick,but was flecked with gray. I stared at his gnarled coarse hands that had thick fingernails at the ends with a dark layer of grime under them. He had on an old jersey sweater and a pair of levis that were clean but frayed.
"Did you bet the fight?"he asked scooting his chair close to mine.
"No,I'll just sit back and watch what's going on."
A waitress walked over. She was dressed like one of those "Marias" with the bright red skirt and the white blouse with the flower patterns and her hair in pigtails.
"What are you drinking?"I asked David.
"I'll have a beer.Thanks,"he said in a gravely voice.
"Make that two beers,"I said to the waitress.
"They have a good crowd tonight,"said David.
Street musicians were strolling by the crowded tables offering to play any song in the repertoire.It was noisy and crowded.Street vendors on the sidewalks were selling everything from chiclets to serapes to ball caps with Mexican or American sports logos. Little kids were running around. Drunks and hookers were straggling along the street across from The Nelson. Loud music emanated from the bars across the street with names like El Fracaso and El Dragon Rojo.
"How old are you Roger?"asked David with a smile on his face.
"71."
"Damn!.71. Why I thought I had you. I'm 65.That makes you six years older than me,"said David counting on his fingers.
"You live down here?"I asked him.
David looked down at the table as the waitress came over with the beer
"I've been down here for seven years. I got deported."
"What happened."
"I kicked the hell out of two cops. They gave me a thousand days and then they deported me."
I made no comment.
"They said if my father had raised me after he had turned 21 they wouldn't have deported me. When I was doing time my father,my brother,and my nephew died."
"Where were you born?"
"Mexicali,"he murmured still looking down."I have a job.I make 2500 pesos a week."
"You have family down here?"
"No.But I have a daughter who lives in Las Vegas. She visits me.She's all I have except for my two dogs. One's a pit bull. The other a Doberman.You don't want to mess with them."
"Where do you live down here?"
"You know the road that goes to Playas.I live half way off to the side up on the hill. They call it El Divina Camino.You could never find my place unless you'd been there before. The roads twist and turn and then go back again.Even the cab drivers can't find it."
"You can get lost easy here if you don't know where your going.",I said.
"You live in Tijuana?"
" I used to but I live in San Diego. I have a daughter ,three grand daughters and seven great grandchildren down here."
"Damn! That's saying something,"said David now making eye contact.
"You know something David.I've been coming to this hotel for over fifty years."
"Damn!"
"You know that little bar next door?"
David nodded.
"Well,when I first started coming down here Carlos Santana played in a band in that bar,The Convoy Club.They played rock n' roll.The kids would go there to dance."
David stared at me.
"You know where the Soriana is up the street?"I asked."Well that whole block was a bar. They called it The Long Bar.It had these mirrors at both entrances and if you stood in front of them your body would look all these funny shapes."
David was still not saying anything. I looked up at the big screen television. Canelo and GGG were walking towards the ring.As both fighters climbed into the ring I was thinking that I was glad to be living in San Diego.
The Dragon Rojo Bar